The original Hermès Birkin bag—the very prototype that evolved into one of the world’s most coveted luxury status symbols—will be auctioned in Paris next month.
This iconic, spacious saddle-stitched handbag, inspired by late actress and singer Jane Birkin, who passed away in 2023, will headline Sotheby’s “Fashion Icons” sale on July 10, the auction house announced Thursday.
Dubbed “The Original Birkin,” this all-black leather bag is the inaugural version of the legendary design, conceived nearly 40 years ago after a serendipitous meeting between Birkin and then-Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas aboard a flight, Sotheby’s detailed.
“There are rare moments in fashion history when an item transcends fleeting trends to become a true legend. Jane Birkin’s Original Birkin bag is undoubtedly one of those moments,” said Morgane Halimi, Sotheby’s global head of handbags and fashion, in a statement.
Halimi placed the bag alongside other iconic artifacts with extraordinary provenance, such as Princess Diana’s famed “black sheep” sweater and Freddie Mercury’s crown and cloak. “Like them, the Original Birkin carries the potential to shatter auction records,” she added.
When asked by CNN about the bag’s expected sale price, Sotheby’s declined to provide an estimate.
Jane Birkin herself once reflected on the bag’s cultural impact. In a 2020 interview with CNN’s Christiane Amanpour, she mused that while she was known for her films and the hit song “Je T’aime… Moi Non Plus,” it might ultimately be the handbag that defines her legacy. “Bless me, when I’m dead… people will possibly only talk about the bag,” she quipped.
The bag’s origin story is as unique as its design. On a 1984 flight, Birkin found herself seated beside Dumas. During their conversation, she mentioned her desire for a handbag “half the size of my suitcase.” He challenged her to sketch it, prompting Birkin to draw the initial design on an airplane sick bag.
Sotheby’s notes that the original Birkin distinguishes itself from later versions through seven distinct features, including its size, metal rings, brass hardware, shoulder strap, zipper, and bottom studs.
Notably, the bag bears Birkin’s initials, “J.B.,” embossed on the front flap and even includes a pair of nail clippers attached to the shoulder strap, underscoring its bespoke craftsmanship.
The handbag will be exhibited publicly at Sotheby’s New York galleries from June 6 to 12. Previously, it drew thousands of visitors when displayed at Sotheby’s Paris galleries last fall and at Sotheby’s Maison in Hong Kong earlier this year.
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