Independent high-end watchmaking continues to gain prominence, with collectors increasingly drawn to rare, exclusive timepieces from small-scale, creator-driven companies. This rising interest has attracted the attention of major luxury groups, eager to invest in these potentially lucrative ventures. Chanel, a long-time player in the realm of independent watchmaking, has now expanded its portfolio by acquiring a 25% stake in MB&F, a move that promises to secure the future of the Swiss watch brand.
Chanel’s involvement in the world of watchmaking dates back nearly four decades. The French luxury house established its watchmaking division in 1987, setting up a design studio in Paris and acquiring the G&F Châtelain Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1993. This facility now assembles watches for Chanel and partially owned Bell & Ross. Additionally, Chanel invested in Kenissi, a movement manufacturer partly owned by Rolex, in 2019. Kenissi now supplies movements for Chanel’s J12 model.
In its strategic expansion, Chanel also invested in independent watchmakers, acquiring minority stakes in Romain Gauthier in 2011 and F.P. Journe in 2018. The recent investment in MB&F, founded by Maximilian Büsser in 2005, marks another significant step in Chanel’s strategy. Büsser, who retains a 60% ownership of MB&F, and his partner Serge Kriknoff (15%), will continue to lead the company alongside Charris Yadigaroglou and Thibault Verdonckt. The new partnership aims to ensure MB&F’s stability and growth while preserving its independent spirit.
Büsser expressed that Chanel’s investment would provide stability and access to a broader network of specialized suppliers, allowing MB&F to maintain its creative autonomy. The brand, which generated CHF 45 million in revenue and produced 419 watches in 2023, also runs M.A.D. Editions, a more accessible venture launched in 2021 with an annual production of about 3,500 pieces.
With Chanel’s strategic stake, MB&F is expected to retain its creative independence, similar to the dynamic seen with Chanel’s other investments in independent watchmaking.
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