On a brisk late September morning in Chablis wine country, the scene at Domaine Roland Lavantureux is both laborious and hopeful. Grape pickers, drenched in sweat, navigate the steep slopes of the Vau de Vey vineyard, hauling heavy buckets filled with prized Chardonnay grapes. It’s the final day of the harvest, but the mood is somber as workers handpick the last of the grapes destined for a bright and high-end Premier Cru.
However, wine lovers worldwide may find it difficult to get their hands on the 2024 “millesime,” as production quantities are expected to be significantly lower than usual. The past year has presented a myriad of challenges for French vineyards, particularly in Chablis, due to extreme weather conditions exacerbated by climate change.
The Weather’s Toll
The difficulties began in April with damaging frost, followed by a double hailstorm in May that severely affected the region. The relentless rain that followed led to the emergence of a destructive mildew fungus, affecting nearly 1,000 hectares (about 2,500 acres) of vines in Chablis. David Lavantureux, the estate’s winemaker, lamented, “This is my most difficult year,” echoing sentiments shared by many seasoned winemakers.
David and his brother Arnaud have been on the front lines, battling mildew and facing severe crop losses. “On our estate, we’re looking at losses of 60 to 65%,” he shared. This year’s harvest lasted just nine days, about half the typical duration, leading to a significant decline in yield.
Broader Impact on French Wine Production
The challenges faced by the Lavantureux estate reflect a broader trend affecting French vineyards this year. The Ministry of Agriculture has projected a total wine production of 39.3 million hectoliters for the country, down 18% from 2023 and 11% below the five-year average. This decline is a result of a combination of harsh weather, including episodes of frost and hail, alongside the persistent threat of mildew.
“It’s been a very tough year, both physically and mentally,” Arnaud commented, adding that he is relieved the harvest is over but exhausted from the laborious process.
The Nature of the 2024 Vintage
The challenges of the 2024 harvest will undoubtedly influence the characteristics of the wines produced at the Lavantureux winery. Arnaud noted, “Balances are not at all the same… There’s more acidity. Maturity is less optimal.” Despite these setbacks, the Lavantureux brothers remain committed to crafting wine that achieves the best balance possible under the circumstances.
Adapting to Climate Change
Traditionally, Chablis vineyards enjoyed a favorable climate, but climate change has disrupted these conditions. Winemakers have begun adopting creative solutions to combat frost and hail damage. For example, delaying bud burst by cutting vines later in the season helps reduce vulnerability to late frost. Additionally, vineyard managers are employing expensive methods like lighting candles and installing electric lines to warm vines during frost threats.
While these measures can reduce risk, they are not foolproof. David acknowledged, “We saw that again this year with several hailstorms, two of which were particularly severe.”
Looking Ahead
Despite the bleak circumstances surrounding the 2024 harvest, the Lavantureux family is optimistic, buoyed by two successful years in 2022 and 2023. These previous vintages are expected to help mitigate financial losses caused by the reduced yield this year. The demand for Chablis remains robust, particularly in the United States, where exports reached 3 million bottles in June, generating 368 million euros (approximately $410 million), reflecting a 19% increase from the previous year.
“We’ve put this harvest behind us. Now it’s time to think about the next one,” said Arnaud Lavantureux, signaling hope and resilience in the face of ongoing challenges in the vineyard.
Related Topics:
