A groundbreaking achievement has been made by Sofie Boons, a senior lecturer and researcher in jewellery design at the University of the West of England (UWE) in Bristol, who has successfully grown a full-sized ruby embedded in a platinum jewellery setting. This pioneering method is believed to be a world-first.
Ms. Boons developed a chemical technique that initiates the growth of a tiny ruby fragment, known as a “seed,” while it remains within its jewellery setting. According to the university, this “in situ process” has not been successfully accomplished before.
To create the gemstone, Ms. Boons began with a ruby seed sourced from waste gemstone offcuts. She placed the seed into a platinum setting, similar to that of a ring, and introduced a chemical agent called “flux.” This agent lowers the temperature, facilitating the gem’s growth.
Unlike traditional lab-grown gems, which are energy-intensive, or sustainably mined stones, these rubies grow in a furnace from waste material, requiring only “five hours of energy” and taking just a few days to develop. “I experiment with growing them inside the furnace for between five and 50 hours,” Ms. Boons explained. “Longer growth times yield cleaner and larger crystals, and I’m working to shorten the process to enhance sustainability.”
This innovative method challenges the conventional view of man-made gemstones as synthetic. Ms. Boons noted that the unique growth patterns of the gems feature natural facets, which she finds intriguing as a jewellery maker.
Bristol-based contemporary jewellery designer Rebecca Enderby, who has authored articles on lab-grown diamonds, highlighted the evolving perception of the value of these gems. “These lab-grown gemstones are not artificial. They mimic what forms over thousands of years in the earth, making them a more affordable alternative to mined stones,” she said, adding that lab-grown gems can also be more environmentally friendly. However, she cautioned that they still consume considerable energy, emphasizing the importance of using green energy providers in their production.
This project, part of Ms. Boons’ PhD research, has received a second phase of funding from UWE. The University of Bristol has also joined the initiative, enabling the expansion of research to include other types of gemstones.
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