Craig Green made a triumphant return to the runway on Wednesday morning, captivating an intimate yet packed audience in East London. The designer’s Spring 2025 collection seamlessly blended utilitarian elements with fluid fabrics, quirky motifs, and a subtle yet striking color palette.
Renowned for his innovative approach to silhouette and pattern, Green’s latest collection was rich in intricate details. Fans of the designer had plenty to admire, from a multicolored pieced and whipstitched biker jacket reminiscent of “Mad Max” more than traditional races, to a double-layered mini poncho adorned with a childlike fire engine motif, and a mesh top with floor-length chunky fringing.
The collection also featured casual jackets and shirts that reimagined traditional checks, fringe mesh caftans, and Fred Perry shirts transformed with multiple waist-cinching belts. Layered pyjama-style suits combined transparency with detailed button trims and edge binding.
Despite the bold statements, much of Green’s collection was surprisingly wearable. The wealth of detail ensured these pieces could transition from the runway to real-life wardrobes, appealing to both fashion enthusiasts and commercial markets alike, as evidenced by Green’s ongoing successful collaborations with Adidas.
But what was the deeper meaning behind this intricate collection? Green’s poetic show notes provided insight: “The outlines of who we’re supposed to be, and the imprints we leave behind, walk side by side. The rough grip of inherited codes, and the rhythmic appeal of successive, repetitive forms, admired and followed.”
“Stoically familiar figures reveal intricate and delicate constructions on closer gaze. Like a young boy exploring an engine, components are carefully taken apart. Separating hard and soft, rigid forms multiply and interlock, while lightweight drapery steadily dissolves.”
“Hazy photographic impressions wash over the body and hang in the air beyond. Finally fading, a sudden return to the tangible renders everyday images sharper and more beautiful than before.”
Green’s show notes perfectly encapsulated the collection’s essence, reflecting a journey of deconstruction and reconstruction, where familiar forms and intricate details coexist harmoniously.
Craig Green’s Spring 2025 runway show was not just a visual feast but a masterclass in balancing commercial appeal with artistic expression.
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