In a surprising shift, high jewellery houses like Chaumet and Pomellato are embracing broader cultural inspirations, incorporating street-inspired designs into their latest collections. The traditionally exclusive world of high jewellery, known for its emphasis on history, craftsmanship, and quality, is now tapping into contemporary influences, including streetwear and music culture.
For Chaumet, the “Tulip” necklace from the Le Jardin de Chaumet collection exemplifies this trend. Creative director Ehssan Moazen notes the piece’s hint of 1980s streetwear and punk aesthetics, providing a fresh and bold take on high jewellery. The necklace features a heavy diamond-set design with an off-center 10.70ct Tanzanian red spinel, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern influences.
Pomellato, a Milanese jewellery house, has a longstanding tradition of embracing fashion and chains. With its recent foray into high jewellery with the “Ode to Milan” collection, Pomellato explores the Castello chain, drawing inspiration from a 1970s choker in its archives. The Castello chain combines neo-medieval aesthetics with contemporary design, featuring five rubellites and 28 carats of diamonds.
The influence of streetwear and music culture in high jewellery is not a new phenomenon. Milanese brand Pomellato, established in 1967, has a history of infusing its 18kt gold designs with fashion-forward elements. The house’s creative director, Vincenzo Castaldo, emphasizes the rock ‘n’ roll and openly seductive qualities of their chain designs.
Even high jewellery collections from fashion-forward brands like Gucci, under former creative director Alessandro Michele, have embraced the non-gender street appeal of chains. Michele’s inventive high jewellery designs often feature bold pendants, drawing inspiration from urban street style while incorporating classic elements.
This shift toward street-inspired designs in high jewellery reflects a broader cultural shift and the desire to appeal to a more diverse and modern audience. As high jewellery houses continue to blend tradition with contemporary influences, the industry is witnessing a new era where sophistication meets street style, creating pieces that demand attention and cater to evolving tastes.
